Recently I came across a recipe for borscht [sic], a traditional
cold beet soup. It’s from The Book of Jewish Food
by Claudia
Roden, published by Alfred A. Knopf,
Inc.
The author
describes it as a cool sweet-and-sour soup which was particularly
popular in Lithuania ,
and is now one of the great Jewish standbys of the restaurant trade.
She does mention that there are lots of different Russian
and Ukrainian versions of borsch (Ukrainians drop the "t").
Still, someone really should enlighten the
author to the fact that it’s *our* soup. It even says so in Wikipedia! As the grandaughter and great-granddaughter of Ukrainian immigrants, I was raised on borsch. Different kinds ... meat, meatless, with cream, cream-less, rhubarb, potluck, you name it. So I consider myself a bit of a connoissuer. And in my experience, borsch was always hot.

The first time I learned there was such a thing as cold
borsch was when I was a young adult, still (relatively) fresh off the farm and
living in Winnipeg .
I popped in to visit a new friend, who happened to be Jewish. When I rang her doorbell, I caught her noshing on (of all things) cold borsch ... straight out of a Manischewitz jar!
I popped in to visit a new friend, who happened to be Jewish. When I rang her doorbell, I caught her noshing on (of all things) cold borsch ... straight out of a Manischewitz jar!
At the time what she was eating seemed as foreign to me as sashimi or goat curry (neither of which I’ve yet acquired a taste for).
For one thing ... who ever heard of store-bought borsch? Never mind cold, but with nothing but beets and broth yet. Not a shred of cabbage or beans or potato to be seen. Let alone chopped dill!
Besides, as far as I was concerned, the only kind of beets that came in a jar was the pickled kind. So ... cold borsch in a jar? That was just plain weird.
I’ve learned (and eaten) much since then, and there’s even a
Ukrainian deli in my family now that sells the stuff ... the hot variety of course. (And
it is the best borsch you have ever tasted!)
As for the cold variety, Sylvia Pidraziuk Molnar recently shared
her recipe for chilled borsch on Nash Holos. It is one of over 200 authentic
Ukrainian recipes that Sylvia (a retired Vancouver
cook and cooking instructor extraordinaire) has shared with Nash Holos listeners over the
years. You can find the recipe here.
Meanwhile, the Jewish version for cold borscht (borsch) that I came across is here. And if you'd like to check out the book, it's available on Amazon. Here's the info and title again: The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey from Samarkand to New York.
Reading this article and the recipe brought back fond memories of my friend Marci, with whom I’ve unfortunately lost touch.
If we ever manage to re-connect I certainly hope that, in addition to the memories and catch-up stories, we will share a bowl of borsch.
Which version ... hot or cold, Jewish or Ukrainian ... well, only the future
knows.
